Roll-up mosquito net: how to replace it without making mistakes

When it comes to mosquito screens—or, more specifically, mosquito screen mesh—it’s not uncommon to have to replace them due to accidental damage or wear and tear that compromises the original material.

What should you do in such cases? Of course, you need to assess the techniques and materials required to replace the mosquito net.

Mosquito screens: a wide selection to suit every taste

The leading manufacturers of mosquito screens offer a wide range of solutions to suit every taste and need.

The classic mosquito net isgray; it is the most widely used model on the market. Thestandard netis durable and sturdy, featuring traditional side “tapes”—strips welded along the edges to ensure the net lasts longer and prevent accidental tears or breaks.

Then there are more specialized models, such as theBellavista, whichoffers a better view of the outside, or theBicolorenet, whose distinctive striped weave makes it easier for animals and children to spot, helping them avoid bumping into it.

Among the models available on the market is thepollen-proof mesh: thanks to its tight weave, it keeps allergens out. Thealuminum mesh used in fixed fly screens has the unique feature and advantage of being rodent-proof.

The collections also include thePet-Antigraffio mattress, which is particularly popular with cat owners and other pet owners because it is scratch-resistant.

Replacing a roll-up mosquito net: practical tips to avoid mistakes

There are several websites that offer videos or photos to serve as a guide, helping you avoid mistakes when you decide to replace your roller mosquito screens due to accidental damage or wear and tear.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to replace the mesh in a vertical window screen.

The first step is to make sure the screen is completely rolled up.

Use a screwdriver to remove the two side panels, as they are screwed to the wall.

Next, move on to the drum: start with the brackets that hold it in place. We recommend removing them with pliers. Now you can remove the drum from its housing and place it on a cloth or sheet to avoid damaging the floor or the work surface (Figure 1).

The fourth step involves unscrewing the side caps (the plastic parts on the sides of the roller box shown in Figure 2—Ed.) of the roller using a screwdriver, taking care not to trigger the spring. We recommend unscrewing the left-hand cap, where the return spring is located (in spring-loaded fly screens).

Once you have removed the screws, slide the head assembly out of the housing, taking great care because the spring causes the component to rotate (Figure 3).

Now remove the entire mesh tube and mesh profile from the housing (Figure 4), and detach the mesh from the tube (Figure 5).

At the bottom, the mesh is attached to the handle profile (Figure 6).

On either side of the handle profile are two plastic components, called glides, which are secured to the mesh with two rivets. Remove the rivets from the glides using a small drill, and then pull the glides themselves out of the handle profile. Be careful not to discard the glides, as they will be needed in the next steps (Figures 6 and 7).

Now you need to remove the mesh from the handle profile, taking great care (Figure 8).

Next, remove the rebar from the mesh pocket (Figure 9).

Note: The rod is not included with all models; if it is not included, we recommend purchasing it as an optional accessory.

To install the new bed frame, simply follow the previous steps in reverse order:

• thread the rod through the mesh
• Insert the mesh into the handle profile
• Slide them in
• Insert the rivets (included) after drilling a small hole in the webbing (Figure 10)
• Secure the mesh to the pipe using double-sided tape and/or paper tape
• Wrap the netting around the pipe
• Put everything inside the dumpster
• Turn the plastic cap 20 times to wind the spring, then close and screw it tight.